花丝镶嵌工艺与首饰设计的融合创新

　　摘 要

　　‘花丝镶嵌’作为中国传统皇家工艺，属燕京八绝之一，具有浓郁的民族特色。其运用金银材料的技艺细腻、精致、华丽，为人们所赞叹。然而，花丝镶嵌这一承载了历史积淀的瑰宝却由于其繁复和保守而与现代市场的设计潮流渐行渐远，老一辈艺人面临生活压力而慢慢从行业内流失，使花丝工艺面临尴尬的局面。

　　现代首饰在当今这个追求个性释放的时代和当代艺术的大背景下已经不再遵循以往的珠宝以贵重繁复为美的传统，而是融入了现代的纯粹、简洁、三维的设计风格，关注多种材料结合的形式，追求现代都市人的审美高度。但现代首饰设计也不能离开历史的承载，尽管它区别于过去，却仍需继承和发扬优秀的传统。

　　结合花丝镶嵌这一传统 手工艺在面对现代首饰设计所呈现的出种种问题，融合与创新便是本文研究的重点。本文通过研究花丝工艺的特点以及现代首饰设计的风格，将两者的融合进行尝试，对出现的问题进行分析，并找寻一些新的设计手段，希望使花丝这一古老工艺能够在今天的首饰设计中重新绽放出璀璨的光彩，也使首饰设计更多元化和有更高的文化层次。

　　关键词：花丝工艺；现代首饰设计；融合；创新

　　Abstract

　　As traditional royal craftsmanship of China, “Filigree Inlaid Metal Art” has been regardedas one of the eight crafts in Beijing with distinctive ethnic characteristics. Its technology of usinggolden and silver materials is exquisite, delicate and fabulous, which has been highly praised bypeople. However, due to complicated and conservative processes of such treasure bearingthousands of years' history in China, it has become harder and harder for Filigree Inlaid MetalArt to keep pace with the current step of modern design fashion; besides, a great number of theolder artists had been forced to give up this industry when facing the pressure of life, whichfinally caused the awkward situation of the Filigree craftsmanship. In the age of pursuingindividual freedom and under the background of contemporary art, modern jewelry has no longerfollowed the tradition of valuing the beauty in preciously & complicate- designed jewelries likeancient China; but it has integrated the modern design style featured by pureness, simplicity andthree dimension, which focuses on the form combining a variety of materials and satisfies theaesthetic standard of modern people. Nonetheless, it couldn't go far without the inheritance ofhistory; despite its difference, it is of great importance for modern jewelry design to inherit andcarry forward the fine tradition. This paper focuses on the integration & innovation of the twodesign features with respect to various problems appeared when the traditional craftsmanship of“Filigree Inlaid Metal Art” had been enormously affected by modern jewelry design. In thispaper, it firstly makes studies on the features of “Filigree Inlaid Metal Art” and the style ofmodern jewelry design; then it tries to integrate the two design features, analyses the existingproblems and seeks for some new design approaches. It is expected that the old craftsmanship of“Filigree” will burst out its brilliance in current jewelry design once again, and to make thejewelry design more diversified with richer cultural heritage.

　　Key words: Filigree craftsmanship; Modern jewelry design; Integration; Innovation

    目 录

　　摘 要

　　Abstract

　　第 1 章 绪论

　　1.1 选题背景

　　1.2 研究目的和意义

　　第 2 章 花丝工艺的历史发展及工艺特征

　　2.1 花丝工艺的历史发展及基本工艺

　　2.2 花丝工艺的纹饰及艺术造型特征

　　第 3 章 现代首饰的设计特征

　　3.1 现代首饰三维特征

　　3.2 现代首饰设计的泛材料特点

　　3.3 现代首饰的多种工艺技术

　　第 4 章 传统花丝工艺首饰的优势与缺憾

　　4.1 传统花丝工艺的优势

　　4.2 传统花丝工艺的缺憾

　　第 5 章 传统花丝工艺与现代首饰设计的融合和创新

　　5.1 材料及纹饰的融合与创新

　　5.2 造型及工艺的融合与创新

　　第 6 章 结论

　　参考文献

　　致 谢