摘要
“抹胸”是女子的重要内衣之一，据目前的材料来看，最晚五代时女子已经穿着“抹胸”,但文献和图像尚不足以支撑对五代时期“抹胸”的研究。到了宋代，不少女子“抹胸”的实物出土，辅以大量图像和文献的支持，便可以对宋代女子“抹胸”进行较为深入的个案研究。从某种意义上说，宋代女子穿戴的“抹胸”是前朝亵衣不断发展而来的结果，经过初步的研究，可以大致还原宋代女子“抹胸”的相关情况，理清宋代之后“抹胸”的发展路径。本文主要就“抹胸”的源流、宋代“抹胸”的形制、材料、色彩、纹样以及“抹胸”与其它服饰的整体搭配进行研究，并考察宋代女性服饰风尚背后所反映的社会生活等相关问题。
结合宋代文献材料、图像材料，对比宋代墓葬中出土女性“抹胸”实物，进行分析整理，探究女性服饰所展现的身体意识，以及宋代女性在当时社会中的相对独立性。由于此前少有关于“抹胸”的个案研究，本文纳入社会学、考古学、艺术学等学科领域的知识，对宋代女子“抹胸”的研究，对中国传统服饰文化而言，则具有一定的意义。
关键词：亵衣；抹胸；宋代；社会文化；女性独立；
Abstract
Strapless is one of important female underwear, which appeared in FiveDynasties at latest, as the excavation about some female strapless of Song Dynastywith lots of pictures and literature, the female strapless of Song Dynasty could bedone an in-depth research in the case that we own little information to do a study onthe female strapless of Five Dynasties. In a sense, the female strapless of SongDynasty is a result which could date back to the developing of former dynasty'sunderwear, while restore the relevant situation and clear the developing tendency offemale strapless in and after Song Dynasty through a preliminary research. This papernot only aims at doing research on the origin and development, form, material, colour,pattern and match with other clothes of female strapless of Song Dynasty, but alsomakes a deeply investigation of relevant issue about social life behind femalecostumes in Song Dynasty. Analysing and collating the documentary datum andpictorial resources by comparing the unearthed female strapless of Song Dynasty,while making an investigation in body consciousness and relative women'sindependence in Song Dynasty by probing into social cultural background. This paperbrings into the knowledge about Sociology, Archeology, Arts, and has implicationsfor Chinese traditional costume for the blank in study of strapless.
Key Words: Underwear; Strapless; Song Dynasty; women's independence
目 录
摘 要
ABSTRACT
引言
第一章 抹胸的概述
第一节：抹胸的界定
第二节：“抹胸”的误读
第三节：抹胸的演变
第二章：宋代女性抹胸探析
第一节：宋代墓葬中出土的抹胸实物
第二节：抹胸常用之面料
第三节：抹胸的色彩
第四节：抹胸之纹样
第三章：宋代抹胸体现的女性身体意识
第一节：抹胸的搭配
第二节：抹胸的松量再释
第四章：宋代女性历史地位的还原
结语
参考文献
致谢
